Italian Fashion: Designs of Gianfranco Ferre

Functional, Elegant, Sophisticated

A native from Legnano in northern Italy, Gianfranco Ferre, born on August 15, 1944, began his exciting and highly successful career in the world of fashion in 1970. Although he earned a degree in architecture in 1969, he chose to follow a different path and began to design an array of fashion accessories for the owners of a boutique in Portofino.

After two years of designing accessories, Ferre began designing raincoats for a manufacturer in Genoa and continued this line of work for the next two years. This position also required extensive travel opportunities.

Ferre's fashion company was launched in 1974 under the distinctive label 'Baila.' Two signature collections for women were introduced in 1978- a ready-to-wear line and a sportier line. Ferre fashion immediately took on a look of its own with simple lines creating a bold and distinctive look that was characteristically recognizable as a Ferre creation. In fact, not long after, the white dressmaker blouse became a staple for Ferre, albeit with original stylistic touches.

Shortly thereafter in 1982, a well-received collection for men was introduced by Ferre. He was well on his way at this point, and he introduced a fine, unique perfume for women in 1984, and a distinguishing fragrance for men in 1986.

In 1986, his first couture collection was introduced to the world of high fashion in the city of Rome. Ferre met with immediate success as buyers and the press were wowed by his bold collection of elegant and sophisticated fashion.

In 1989, Paris was lucky enough to have his talent and expertise as stylistic director of Christian Dior. Gianfranco Ferre replaced Marc Bohan at the time, despite expressed surprise at the placing of the House of Christian Dior in the control of an Italian. Nonetheless, Gianfranco Ferre met with great success and was awarded the "De d'or" in July 1989 for the Haute Couture collection presented in Paris.

However, in 1996, Ferre decided to end his relationship with the House of Christian Dior. In 1997, after Dior's spring collection was introduced, the two parted and went their separate ways.

Ferre's collections have been distinctly different than those of Dior, presenting a more relaxed look. The add-ons to outfits, such as pockets, have been functional, practical, and appealing. Ferre has consistently veered away from trends, publicity stunts, and stylistic gimmicks. He prefers to rely on the appeal and interest of careful designs and balanced forms for his collections.  

Gianfranco Ferre traveled to India early on in his career. His experiences overseas in Asia flavored his designs by combining a taste of the East with a taste of the West. This delightful combination led to collections that present a relaxed sophistication coupled with an informal elegance.

Since 1983, Ferre has been awarded several times over in the fashion industry for his great talent and magnificent contributions to fashion. Among the many awards that he has earned through his creativeness and stylistic talent and rightfully received are the "Occhio d'oro" in 1982, 1983, 1984, 1986, 1987, and1989, the "Modepreis" in 1985, the Cutty Sark Men's Fashion Award in 1985, and the "Milanese dell'anno" in 1989.

Among the eclectic array of accomplishments of the House of Ferre, Via San Andrea 18, Milano are his fashionable line of Ferrejeans, Forma Zero, and Oaks, a sporty collection for women. Not far from Milan, at Lake Maggiore, Ferre enjoyed taking in the simpler things of life when he wasn't traveling the world.

By Susan M. Keenan