Milan Fashion Week - Spring 2011 - Part 2
Women's Spring 2011 Collections: Moschino, Missoni, Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Etro
The recent fashion week in Milan was all about color and celebrating the sun, a vibrant look forward to warmer months even as we find ourselves in the beginning stages of autumn. Here, we continue our recap of what the Italian fashion houses showed for Spring/Summer 2011.
Moschino's Français Americana Maximalism
Rosella Jardini sent models down the Moschino runway wearing cowboy hats and festooned in outfits that referenced the Wild West, the American flag, traditional Paris fashion and nautical styling. Aside from the ten-gallons there were also fleur-de-lis earrings, polka-dotted headscarves, endless stripes, strappy ribbon sandals, Colonel Sanders-esque neckties and straight up saloon girl outfits that could be used as sexy Halloween costumes this fall. The tailoring was spot on and, separated, some of the pieces could work in everyday life, but overall the whimsical maximalism seen here won't be easy for a regular woman to wear. To wit, one need look no further than the perfectly fitted black Moschino suit worn to the show by Vogue Nippon's Anna Dello Russo, a fashionista who always looks for the fun in fashion and manages to pull off avant-garde--and even off the wall--with aplomb. Not many could wear what Dello Russo did, her simple black suit made anything but by the tons of gold hoops dripping off it, and not many could pull off Jardini's over the top whimsy, either.
Following Missoni's Boho Beat
Tribal was big on Italian runways for Spring 2011 and nowhere was the influence more evident than in Angela Missoni's collection. The Missoni family is famous for its luxurious knits, but recently has become increasingly known for a particular brand of gypset style personified by scion and international "It" girl Margherita Missoni. Colors and patterns crashed together at Missoni, seen on kaftans and kimonos, ankle-length dresses and above-the-knee shifts. There was a heavy dose of 70s psychedelic--what with the swirling patterns, flowing silhouettes and floppy hats--as well as more than a few very wearable pieces of zig-zagging knits that will be all over the beach resorts come summer.
Fendi: Here Comes The Sun
Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi served up a collection that was a study in contrasts for Spring 2011. The opening looks were a variety of soft white outfits edged with delicate detailing and the singed design (think burnt paper) echoed on the runway's backdrop. These looks screamed purity and innocence and seemed perfectly suited to walking barefoot on a Greek beach. The tone shifted slightly with the introduction of some square-shouldered suits and knee-length skirts paired with flowing cut-out blouses that oozed sensual urbanity. Amid the white and beige there were some great shots of color among them a compelling aqua shade that makes one ache for sunshine and warm breezes. The accessories, always an important part of any Fendi show, were also on point from the color-blocked sunglasses and stylish wedges to the colorful bags like the gorgeous woven leather clutches that were perfectly suited for the flowing looks.
Loose and Easy Luxe at Bottega Veneta
Last season Tomas Maier made fashionistas swoon with his perfectly tailored powersuits, but those expecting more of the same for spring would have been disappointed. Instead Maier presented a collection all about luxury, quality and fluidity. Models with seemingly wet and unstyled hair sported floaty dresses in a neutral palette and varying lengths, a variety of relaxed pantsuits (there were also shorts and tailored jackets with cut-out backs) and easy flats. Bottega's signature intrecciato bags were seen, of course, some with the added element of feathers (the woven design was also echoed in boxy, bow-topped clutches) to remind us just what kind of exclusive luxury Maier is selling no matter how cool and laidback the end look is.
Etro's Version of Tribal Luxe
Etro called their Spring 2011 collection an "urban slant on the exotic" that featured the "graphic geometrics of multi-tribal influences," which translates into the flowing silhouettes and bold patterns that make the line ideal for summer and resort season. Like Missoni and Fendi, Etro is another of the family-run Italian fashion houses rich in history and quality that didn't disappoint this season. Veronica Etro's palette included an interesting mix of blues, black, khaki, mustard yellow, olive and orange that looked as good in mixed prints as it did in the beautiful single-color and color-blocked garments. This was warm weather clothing for the modern boho-chic stylista done right.
Check out Part 3 of our series on the Spring/Summer 2011 Women's Wear collections in Milan.




