Meat

This is Marcella Hazan's recipe. She prepared it for lunch on the terrace outside the lovely, antique-filled top-floor apartment she and her husband, Victor, share in the Cannaregio district of Venice. The Hazan's served the quail with polenta.
This is Marcella Hazan's recipe. She prepared it for lunch on the terrace outside the lovely, antique-filled top-floor apartment she and her husband, Victor, share in the Cannaregio district of Venice. The Hazan's served the quail with polenta.
"I love this dish the way it's done in Venice, with the liver in small pieces," Francesco says. "But when Americans come into Remi, they want the liver medium-rare and that's impossible, so I started making it with big pieces of liver." This is another of those dishes that Adam Tihany cites as evidence of the Chinese connection. It's simply a stir-fry. Another theory connects the small pieces of meat to the fork, a utensil first used at the table in Venice. Fynes Moryson, the early-17th-century visitor from England, marveled that Venetians do not touch their meat; they are served small pieces to be taken up with the fork. The liver in small pieces with golden onions, is one of the most superb dishes on the menu of the Hotel Cipriani.
"I can remember how we used to eat all the parts of the animal that nobody else wanted," Francesco says. "Poor women would go to the butcher and ask for two pounds of lungs for the cat. They did not want to look cheap. But then they'd take it home, flour and fry it, and serve it for dinner." It's no wonder that a liver dish is considered a Venetian classic or that this deliciously savory tongue dish is also popular. The sauce is similar to a green sauce.
Simply roasted racks of lamb are an excellent foil for many of the potato and vegetable dishes typical of Venice. Francesco recommends spezzatino di verdure, or vegetable casserole, with the racks of lamb. His mashed potatoes are excellent as well.
Roman Saltimbocca alla Romana: veal roman style
Veal Piccata or veal with lemon juice
Pork chops with olives
Steak with parsley sauce
Steak with parsley sauce