I happened to stumble onto the charming and unobtrusive town of Sarteano, which is hidden away just over 6 kilometres after leaving the highway. If it wasn’t for the signpost, you would probably pass it by--but don’t. It is a gift out of the blue. Head up the gently snaking road, passing fields of olive trees and vines where Sarteano, a self-contained oasis on a green plateau 573 meters above sea level, awaits your arrival. As you make your way towards it you will see the town, with a population of approximately 4,800, unfold ahead of you.

Sarteano Castle

The historical center has a labyrinth of little streets and alleyways, huddling together at the base of the medieval castle originally built in approximately 1038, then rebuilt around 1469 and used as a fortress against many sieges. The views from the fortress are spectacular. You will see landscapes of Val di Chiana, Monte Cetona and the Umbrian mountains on the horizon. If you visit Sarteano make sure to bring your camera! The fortress is open to visitors at various times between May and December at very reasonable prices.

At the base of the historical center, within Piazza XXIV Giugno, you will find the beautiful theatre Il Teatro degli Arrischianti. The inside of the theater has an elegant elliptical  shape with splendid three tiered boxes. The history of the theater stretches back as early as the 1600s. Lovingly restored the theater often comes alive with frequent productions by the Arrischianti Theater Group, school productions and various musicals.

A stone’s throw away on the Via Roma is the museum, Museo Civico Archeologico, situated within the sixteenth-century building, Palazzo Gabrielli. For a very reasonable entrance fee, you can go back in time, viewing many important discoveries including Etruscan relics from the Sarteano area. While you are visiting the city's historical center go to San Martino church, located close to the Porta Umbra Gate. Inside you will find a great masterpiece, an Annunciation by Domenico Beccafumi (1486 – 1551). Sarteano also offers several other churches to discover, each with their own priceless treasures. 

Sarteano: Bar Italia

If you're anything like me after a day full of sightseeing you'll be ready for a perfectly prepared Italian coffee. Like most towns in Italy, Sarteano offers many options with several bars to choose from--two of which in particular I'd like to mention. 

The first, located at the junction of Piazza Bargagli, is called Bar dello Sport. You can mix with locals inside this popular bar or choose a seat outside for some "people watching." Another bar you might like to try is Bar Italia, tucked into the quaint Corso Garibaldi, within the town's historical center. The bar is managed by a fun Italian who will deliver your refreshments to the little tables located along the narrow street.

If you are interested in archaeology don't miss the Pianacce Necropolis just outside Sarteano. Before venturing out check visiting days and times with the museum. At the necropolis you can see the splendid Quadriga Tomb from the second half of the 4th Century B.C., which houses uniquely painted walls depicting the Etruscan thoughts on the afterlife. Not only are the ancient tomb and other underground rooms special, but so is the view out across the Val di Chiana. There are a couple of seats where you may wish to rest quietly, taking time to reflect and absorb the landscape.

Feeling hungry? You will find several restaurants and pizzerias here, with only one problem--choosing which to try first! There is La Locanda dei Tintori, situated just inside the city's historical center. Eating outside this popular pizzeria on a balmy evening is a pure pleasure. Even better, this meal won't break the bank! If you enjoy pasta try the Pici, a regional hand-rolled spaghetti specialty. Rather than opting for the usual ragu (meat) sauce why not order Pici del Cacciatore (Pici with Wild Boar Sauce). Delicious! You may also want to try the family run Taverna di Merlino on Via di Fuori or the rustic home cooking at Trattoria Tripolitania on Corso Garibaldi. The Osteria Da Gagliano on Via Roma also offers a range of tasty recipes.

If you are in need of cooling down while visiting the city, Sarteano boasts a beautiful swimming pool, which is constantly fed by a cascade of spring water kept at 24 degrees.

Sarteano: Horse Show

Special Events in Sarteano

Should you be in the area during June and you love horses, then the Febbre da Cavallo, an excellent long weekend equestrian show, is definitely for you.

If you time it so that you are in Sarteano for the 15th of August, you will be in town for the special holiday of Assunzione Maria Vergine.

Every year Sarteano holds it’s Giostra del Saracino, a jousting tournament where five areas of the town compete against each other. Tickets for the seated stands are purchased locally, preferably a couple of days beforehand. The afternoon prior to the Giostra there is a wonderful parade through the town.

The people of the area are great olive oil and wine enthusiasts. During August and September many little Piaggio vehicles will pass you filled to the brim with grapes for making wine. During November the same little vehicles are filled with olives and can be seen hurrying to the local press. Shortly thereafter Sarteano holds various events promoting the tasty green nectar. The local tourist information office Pro-Loco, situated on Corso Garibaldi, can be contacted by telephone at 0039 0578 269204 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting              0039 0578 269204      end_of_the_skype_highlighting or on their website www.prolocosarteano.it

If you visit Piazza Bargagli, the town's main square, on most sunny days you will see its "sunflowers." The older male population of the town sit or stand, chatting amongst one another and watching the world go by, loving the warmth of the Tuscan sun.

Getting to Sarteano

Visitors can fly into Rome, which is approximately one and a half hours away from Sarteano, or Pisa (Galileo Galilei airport), which is about two and a half hours away. The nearest train station is at Chiusi. The station is approximately 13 kilometers away from the city center and, depending on time of day, there is a bus connection. Alternately one can hire a taxi or car from the train station. If you choose to use Sarteano as a base to explore the surrounding towns, you’ll be pleased to know that Pienza, Montepulciano, Montalcino and Cortona are all within an easy distance.

My overall opinion of Sarteano is that it is an extremely pleasant rural town. Depending on the time of year, you’ll hear the faint sounds of hunting gunshots from the nearby woods. The "sunflowers" who stand in the square have handed down the huntsman tradition. Apart from the zebra crossings, which very few Italian drivers ever take notice of, you feel quite safe. So if you happen to be passing along the autostrada, Sarteano is definitely worth stopping in for a few days. If you do I'm sure you'll leave with many fond memories. 

By: Fay Henson