Trasimeno with Isola Maggiore

I was fortunate enough to be invited out on a trip with an Italian friend.  And I'm glad I went.  It was autumn and he wanted to show me Isola Maggiore.  The island is one the three islands inside Lago Trasimeno, Italy's fourth largest lake situated just inside Umbria close to Tuscany.  Whilst the sun warms us, it's incredibly hard to imagine that this lake had frozen over in February 1929 and again thirty four years later in February 1963!

We parked the car and boarded the small ferry north of the lake at Tuoro Navaccia near Tuoro sul Trasimeno after paying a reasonably priced return fare.  Visit www.apmperugia.it for fares and timetable.   The short crossing was exhilarating, and soon we were stepping into a quiet, unique world, which reminds us it was once a small medieval fishing village.  The islands habitants live in the cluster of buildings along Via Guglielmi, close to the water's edge.  Most of the island is covered with olive trees (and, maybe because they're happily marooned without a predator, rabbits!).

After disembarking, our first port of call was at a pleasant bar just ahead on the right-hand side.  There is plenty of outside seating to enjoy a real Italian coffee without traffic!  Glorious.  My energy levels were topped-up and I was ready to walk one of the two routes around the island.  Comfortable shoes are essential for the walks.  Depending on the route you choose, you will pass the church of San Michele Arcangelo and the church with convent of San Francesco (also known as Villa Guglielmi).  Make sure you go to the higher points and find a perfect spot to rest.  I guarantee you will be enthralled by the views across the lake and captivated by the island's tranquillity.  No doubt the same as Saint Francis must have experienced when he decided to stay on the island to fast during lent in the year 1211.  Take your time and enjoy.

Isola Maggiore water edge

I'm sure you will find it difficult to pull yourself away, but walking definitely brings on an appetite and mixed with the knowledge of the menu's on offer, you'll be lured down to Via Guglielmi without a qualm.  I was introduced to a restaurant All'Antico Orologio (The Ancient Clock) situated alongside la Casa del Capitano del Popolo.  I was led through the dining room and out into the restaurant's garden overlooking the lake.  There are plenty of tables, but I would suggest making a reservation for lunch however.  Telephone - Italy 0758 254211.  Many recipes include fish from the lake, for example, perch fillets with butter and sage or roast carp as well as traditional Italian cuisine.  The All'Antico Orologio is a very nice restaurant with good food and a lovely setting.

Time moves on when you are enjoying yourself, so try to leave enough space to visit the buildings either side, Casa del Capitano del Popolo, the island's museum and the Chiesa del Buon Gesú with the beautiful wall paintings (frescoes).  Opposite, only a short stroll away is the Sede delle Opere Pie Isola Maggiore, (Museo del Merletto), the lace museum.  Interestingly, Irish Stitch Lace was introduced to the island in the early 20th century and is still practiced.

In fact you may be lucky and find a chair positioned outside a residents home with handmade lace for sale.  If you will be looking for a souvenir of the island, there is a small gift shop located on the corner near the bar I mentioned previously on first arrival.  It is crammed full of interesting souvenirs and beautifully painted earthenware.

Isola Maggiore's resident cats look like they have their own island story to tell.  Some have a closed eye, some appear tough and others cute.  But one thing they all have in common is that they all look as though they dine well on the lake's fish.

When early evening arrives and you stroll down towards the jetty, look out for the eight resident geese.  They're never far away watching their visitor's come and go.  And if your timing is right for your return ferry to the mainland, you'll witness an amazing sunset in the direction of Tuscany.  An impeccable ending to a wonderful day.  If you have the opportunity to visit, my advice would be, take it.

By Fay Henson

See also Lake Trasimeno