Perugia

Perugia, Capital of Umbria

PERUGIA (Umbria) The capital of the Umbran region, the city is of the greatest interest from the artistic point of view (noteworthy among others are the National Gallery, the archeological museums and the museum of the Cathedral). From the point of view of architectural attractions, there are two major periods in the history of Perugia: The Etruscan period and the medieval period until the 1500s. From the former period, the vestiges of the ancient walls and arches are still visible. From the latter period, there are the imposing religious and public buildings (S. Michele, S. Pietro, S. Francesco, the Cathedral, the palace of the Priori, the Collegio del Cambio, S. Bernardino) as well as the many parts of the town that retain the characteristics of the medieval village with small narrow alleys and austere buildings.

A city with a strong and severe aura, Perugia is rendered more joyful by the surrounding gracious countryside and the luminous views overlooking the valley of the Tiber River; it is also graced by the many works of art of its 14th century artists (B. Bonfigli, the Caporali, Fiorenzo di Lorenzo etc). Foremost among these are Pinturicchio and Perugino, the master of the sublime Raffaello. The latter painted an affresco in the church of S. Severo. In summer and in autumn, the city hosts important theatrical and musical events.

_{Perugia: Palazzos, Piazzas, Churches and Walls}

The heart of the Umbrian capital lies at the top of the hill and centers around the Piazza IV Novembre. In the center of the square is the Fontana Maggiore, a 13th century masterpiece made of carved marble and cast bronze. The sculpted water carriers were carved by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, a father/son team known for their work in Pisa and represent a mixture of biblical and local figures. The fountain was provided water by a medieval aqueduct whose route can still be traced northwest toward the Conca neighborhood. Close to the fountain is the city Cathedral of San Lorenzo, which dominates the square.

Begun in 1345, the Cathedral was finished in 1490. However the exterior was left in an uncompleted state that is visible to this day. The Marble facing that was planned for the exterior can be seen along the side of the building closest to the Fontana Maggiore. A statue of Pope Julius III sits atop a broad stairway along this side of the church, watching over the crowds that gather here on hot summer nights. The Cathedral's interior is uniquely Umbrian in that it is modeled after a Franco-German church pattern that gives the impression of a single large hall instead of the more common basilica model. The Chapel of San Bernardino is the artistic standout of the church, containing a masterpiece by Barocci called the Deposition. On a pillar in the nave is a venerated painting of Madonna delle Grazie by a pupil of hometown artist Perugino. Upon the altar is a silver and gold tabernacle that contains an onyx ring, believed to be the wedding ring of Mary and Joseph. Once housed in Chiusi, the ring was stolen and brought to Perugia in 1473.

Across from the Cathedral and the fountain is the Palazzo dei Priori, the town hall that grew from a modest foundation in 1297 to a monumental building by 1423. Private dwellings as well as churches were incorporated into the growing edifice. The main portal leads to the Sala dei Notari, a superb medieval room covered in frescoes and coats of arms of the mayors and captains of the town. The town council room, the exchange room with its chapel to John the Baptist as well as the merchant's guildhall are works of art in and of themselves. The second floor of the palazzo houses the National Gallery of Umbria and since 1879 has housed works of art from the city and surrounding area including works by Perugino, Pintoricchio, della Francesca and Fra Angelico among others.

From the Piazza IV Novembre Perugia fans out into numerous winding streets that circle the hillside. Heading south is the Corso Vannucci, the main street in town and one of the few that is not inclined from the terrain. Corso Vannucci leads to Piazza Italia. Once the sight of the Rocca Paolina it now houses the Government Palace and a nice public square with a small park perfect for people watching. From this area is a spectacular view of the sights downhill and the Umbrian countryside.

A short walk from here leads to what was once part the city gate during Etruscan times and now known as the Scalinata di Sant'Ercolano. It is a winding series of stone stairs that steeply leads down the hill. The stairs are often filled with vendors and can be a very colorful part of the city and a good spot to rest if heading uphill toward the city center. Downhill from the stairs is the formidable presence of the Church of Sant'Ercolano, dedicated to the patron saint of the city. Ercolano was once the Bishop of Perugia, losing his life (and his head) after leading the defense of the city from the Goths in 547 AD. Sadly for him, his martyrdom was secured when a traitor allowed the Goths to breach the defenses. The church looks more like a fort but houses some treasures that include beautiful frescoes and the body of Saint Ercolano himself - interred in the high altar made from a Roman sarcophagus.

Nearby is all that remains of one of Perugia's main forts, the Rocca Paolina. Built by Papal forces after Perugia's defeat in the "Salt war", this fort once dominated the main portion of the hill and even incorporated the upper section of the Church of Sant'Ercolano as well as whole neighborhoods. Not much is left of the fort after it was finally demolished after the unification of Italy, with Piazza Italia replacing the fort. However the Porta Marzia, one of the Etruscan city gates that was incorporated into the Rocca Paolina is still an imposing sight.

Further downhill and in sight of the Rocca Paolina is one of the largest churches in all of Umbria, the Church of San Domenico. While it is technically a Gothic structure with an interior that influenced the city Cathedral, much of this is gone after the vaults collapsed. The church was then rebuilt in a more baroque style. One of the few highlights of this building is the tomb of Pope Benedict IX, who died in Perugia in 1304 and was transferred here after the rebuilding of the church. The former cloister of the church, located in Piazza Giordano Bruno was once the Papal artillery barracks but now houses both the State Archives as well as the Archeological Museum of Umbria. The museum has an impressive collection of Etruscan and Etrusco-Roman artifacts that have been excavated locally. Most of the collections are of grave good including urns and stele found in underground tombs called Hypogea. For more monumental evidence of these ancient people, one only need walk around the city to see the mark left on Perugia by the Etruscans in the form of massive city walls and gates.

The Etruscan arch (also known as the arch of Augustus) is not the only one in the city, but it is the most complete and most impressive. This stone gateway is flanked by two great towers that project forward down the hillside. The central part consists of an Etruscan decorated arch with an inscription referring to the rebuilding of the city by Augustus Caesar after a lengthy siege in which ancient Peroscia was burned to the ground. Even though modern Perugia was built on these ashes, the massive gates still stand as a testament to Etruscan engineering.

At the northern end of Corso Garibaldi, in an area once protected by medieval city walls and the impressive Porta Sant'Angelo gate is the oldest church in Perugia. The Tempio di Sant'Angelo dates from the 5th century and was built using materials from pagan temples, including sixteen marble columns that surround the rotunda. The circular design and the use of roman artifacts throughout the church give it a decidedly ancient feel that is not far removed from the building's pagan roots.

Along the western side to the city are two beautiful places of worship that should be visited. The quaint Oratory of San Bernardino was built in1451 in honor of the saint that used to preach in this piazza. The facade chronicles the life of San Bernardino in a style made famous by the architect Battista Alberti. The scenes above the doors are of the miracles wrought by the saint carved in ivory colored marble. The interior still resembles the gothic style even though it is a Renaissance construction.

The high altar consists of yet another recycled Roman sarcophagus. This one contains the remains of Blessed Egidio, a Franciscan and close friend of St. Francis of Assisi who dubbed him a "knight of the round table." Next door is the larger but less ornate San Francesco al Prato.

This was once the pantheon of Perugia's great men. However today the area is best known as a great place to gather in the warm months. The two buildings are joined by an arch that spans the entrance to the former Convent of San Francesco, present day home to the Academia delle Belle Arti. The museum is best known for a collection of plaster casts of great works of art including the Medici tombs that are located in Florence.

Close to the Piazza San Francesco and the open topped bell tower of the Church of San Matteo is what remains of a Roman bath with a 2nd Century mosaic. The black and white stones depict the god Orpheus taming wild beasts with his lyre. Those looking for more ancient remains will be best served taking a short trip outside the town center where on Mt. Vile rests the Volumni Hypogeum. This underground Etruscan tomb is the most famous of the many Necropoli that dot the Tuscan and Umbrian countryside. The tomb truly is a house of the dead, designed like a small Roman villa with a vaulted roof covering the atrium and small tombs branching out. The largest tomb gives the Hypogeum its name, it belonging to the Volumnia family and is still arranged in the original position. It is from grave discoveries like this that archeology knows what little it does about these mysterious people as their written language has yet to be deciphered.

Suggestions for visitors

Perugia is well worth the visit, be it a daytrip or an extended stay. In order to maximize your sightseeing try starting at the top of the hill at Piazza IV Novembre and work your way downhill. To avoid exhaustion use the frequent busses instead of climbing the steep hill in the hot Umbrian sun. In the evening return to the Piazza to participate in the Italian tradition of the evening stroll before dinner or take a seat on the Cathedral steps and watch the world go by.

Dining suggestions: Ristorante, Trattorie, and Pizzerias

Restaurant La Botte Via Volte della Pace, 33 - 06122 Perugia (Perugia) Tel. +39 0755726104 - Fax +39 0755726104

Restaurant Locanda del Brigante Str.Ponte d'Oddi, 109/111 - 06100 Perugia (Perugia) Tel. +39 07544852 - Fax +39 0755840462

Pizzeria Al Massiano via Trasimeno Ovest, 6 - 06125 Perugia (Perugia) Tel. 0755005621 - 0755002606 - Fax 0755016630

Pizzeria Locanda degli Artisti Via Campo Battaglia, 10 - 06122 Perugia (Perugia) Tel. 0755735851 - Fax 0755738917

By Justin Demetri