Emilio Pucci

Emilio Pucci, The King of Casual Couture

Emilio Pucci was the kingpin of textile reinvention and beautiful prints in the fifties and sixties. His designs revolutionized the world of fashion, knocking the previous trend of dull colors and heavy fabrics on its ear and developing a fan following that was almost unheard of at the time. Today, original Pucci prints from that time period are highly collectable items, and the current line of Pucci clothing is still in demand by consumers.

Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento was born in 1914 in Naples, Italy, the son of a wealthy aristocrat. He was raised in the lap of luxury, and became an avid skier and scholar, earning his PhD in Political Science and joining the Italian Olympic ski team in 1934.

While skiing one day on the slopes of St. Moritz, a reporter from Harper's Bazaar noticed Pucci and his outfit. After taking some photos, her editor discovered that Pucci had designed his own skiwear, and invited him to create some pieces for a photo session about winter fashion. The designs were featured in the winter 1948 edition of Harper's Bazaar, and the fashion world got their first taste of Pucci's style and aesthetic.

In 1949, Pucci opened his first shop in Capri, and by 1950 he had created his first couture line of clothing and presented it in France. While others were making stuffy suits out of cumbersome fabrics, Pucci was using bold colors and prints on lightweight materials. The House of Pucci was born, and the public adored him. Emilio Pucci was now the first in his family to hold gainful employment in over a thousand years.

Pucci sold an astonishing array of casual wear, from the new Capri pants to silk dresses, scarves, jumpsuits, and pajamas. His bold use of prints, which featured colors that clashed, made his creations stand out from the other designers of his time. The popularity of his printed silk dresses skyrocketed when young consumers discovered how lightweight they were, and that they were also wrinkle-free. Dozens of Pucci outfits could be packed into a single bag for travel.

The Pucci Empire had taken off, and soon there were dozens of items that sported the Pucci prints. Lingerie, handbags, shoes, wallets, sleepwear and more were added to the line. He also designed a collection of airline hostess uniforms that revolutionized the industry, and even included a plastic helmet that would protect the women's hairstyles.

Pucci won awards for his innovative style, including two from Neiman-Marcus in 1954 and 1967 for "distinguished service" in the field of fashion. He continued to create new and wonderful designs, branching out into stretch fabrics for pants, tights, and other garments.

In the late 1960's, Pucci was elected to the Italian Parliament. He was a respected and well-known fascist, having penned many pieces on his political views. He continued to act as head designer for the House of Pucci until his death in 1992.

Since then, Pucci has undergone several changes. Emilio's daughter Laudomia took over as head designer upon her father's death, followed by several others. Today Pucci features celebrated fashion designer Christian LaCroix, who has taken the brand and revitalized it by using vintage Pucci prints combined with new styles.

Such celebrities as Isabella Rossellini and Jennifer Lopez wear Pucci creations, and the style that made its name in the 50's and 60's has become the subject of both private and museum collections.

What started out as a need to design new and more functional skiwear for his ski team became a fashion empire for Emilio Pucci. Although Pucci's famous and fabulous prints defined a jet-setting generation in the 50's and 60's, his influence on textiles and prints is still very relevant in today's world of couture fashion.

By Carrie Grosvenor.