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Cooking fish in a parchment wrap is essentially a method of steaming. Francesco urges that the whole fish, not just fillets or steaks, be use. "You need the bones and it has to be thick so you can get all the succulence and flavor," he says. The touch of citrus gives the fish a decidedly Venetian cast.
"Seafood stews are not easy to make because you really have to cook each kind of fish separately so that nothing is overcooked," Francesco advises. The end result is fresh, light, and simple. Some tiny red potatoes, like the ones that beckon invitingly from the baskets in Venice's Rialto market, could simply be steamed, dusted with fresh rosemary, drizzled with olive oil, and served alongside the seafood stew, to be added to each dish at the table.

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